Mini Christmas Stocking Knitting Pattern

I love knitting special decorations for Christmas, and I have created several designs for little stockings to decorate my Christmas tree.  Here are a few patterns that I would love to share with you.

My little stocking is quick to knit, uses a small amount of yarn, and the pattern is designed for newbie-knitters.  The finished stocking is 8 cm high (excluding the loop).

Experienced knitters, please do not have high expectations, this is a beginner’s pattern, but you may also enjoy knitting up this quick project.

If you would like to download a free pdf version of this pattern, it is available by clicking on the link here, and also in my Ravelry store.

Here are the materials you need to make your stocking…

• 4mm straight knitting needles
• Two 4mm Double Pointed Needles (DPNs), or a length of wool or
  ribbon to make a loop
• 10g double knit (8 ply) wool for the stocking in your chosen
  colour.
• 10g double knit (8 ply) wool for the top of the stocking and loop
  in your chosen colour.
• Tapestry needle

Stocking knitting pattern

This pattern is to make the stocking with moss stitch at the top.

Make 1

Start at the foot of the stocking.  Cast on 18 stitches in red.

1. P (18)
2. [KFB] X 18 (36)
3. P (36)
4. K (36)
5. P (36)
6. K (36)
7. P (36)
8. K (36)
9. P (36)
10. K10, [K2TOG] X 8, K10 (28)
11. P (28)
12. K10, [K2TOG] X 4, K10 (24)
13. P (24)
14. K10, [K2TOG] X 2, K10 (22)
15. P (22)
16. K (22)
17. P (22)
18. K (22)
19. P (22)
20. K (22)
21. P (22)
22. K (22)
23. P (22)
24. Change to white wool at the beginning of
    this row:  P (22)
25. K (22)
26. P (22)
27. P (22)
28. P (22)
29. [K1, P1] X 11 (22)
30. [P1, K1] X 11 (22)
31. [K1, P1] X 11 (22)
32. [P1, K1] X 11 (22)
33. [K1, P1] X 11 (22)
34. [P1, K1] X 11 (22)

Cast off all stitches in pattern [K1, P1]

To make the stocking, fold the knitted piece in half lengthwise to make the stocking shape, and sew side edges together, and the cast on edges at the bottom of the stocking.  Fold over the top edge to finish the stocking

Stocking Loop

The loop to hang the stocking is made by knitting i-cord on two double pointed needles.  Cast on 3 stitches and make an i-cord approximately 7 cm long and cast off.  Attach the i-cord ends to the top of the stocking to make a loop.

Pattern Variations

This pattern is to make the striped stocking with moss stitch at the top.

Make 1

Start  at the foot of the stocking.  Cast on 18 stitches in red.

1. P (18)
2. [KFB] X 18 (36)
3. Change to white wool at the beginning of
   this row:  P (36)
4. K (36)
5. Change to red wool at the beginning of
   this row:  P (36)
6. K (36)
7. Change to white wool at the beginning of
   this row:  P (36)
8. K (36)
9. Change to red wool at the beginning of
   this row:  P (36)
10. K10, [K2TOG] X 8, K10 (28)
11. Change to white wool at the beginning of
    this row:  P (28)
12. K10, [K2TOG] X 4, K10 (24)
13. Change to red wool at the beginning of
    this row:  P (24)
14. K10, [K2TOG] X 2, K10 (22)
15. Change to white wool at the beginning of
    this row:  P (22)
16. K (22)
17. Change to red wool at the beginning of
    this row:  P (22)
18. K (22)
19. Change to white wool at the beginning of
    this row:  P (22)
20. K (22)
21. Change to red wool at the beginning of
    this row:  P (22)
22. K (22)
23. P (22)
24. Change to yellow wool at the beginning of this row:  P (22)
25. K (22)
26. P (22)
27. P (22)
28. P (22)
29. [K1, P1] X 11 (22)
30. [P1, K1] X 11 (22)
31. [K1, P1] X 11 (22)
32. [P1, K1] X 11 (22)
33. [K1, P1] X 11 (22)
34. [P1, K1] X 11 (22)

Cast off all stitches in pattern [K1, P1]

This pattern is to make the stocking with ribbed stitch at the top.

Make 1

Start at the foot of the stocking.  Cast on 18 stitches in yellow.

1. P (18)
2. [KFB] X 18 (36)
3. P (36)
4. K (36)
5. P (36)
6. K (36)
7. P (36)
8. K (36)
9. P (36)
10. K10, [K2TOG] X 8, K10 (28)
11. P (28)
12. K10, [K2TOG] X 4, K10 (24)
13. P (24)
14. K10, [K2TOG] X 2, K10 (22)
15. P (22)
16. K (22)
17. P (22)
18. K (22)
19. P (22)
20. K (22)
21. P (22)
22. K (22)
23. P (22)
24. Change to white wool at the beginning of
    this row:  P (22)
25. K (22)
26. P (22)
27. P (22)
28. P (22)
29. [K1, P1] X 11 (22)
30. [K1, P1] X 11 (22)
31. [K1, P1] X 11 (22)
32. [K1, P1] X 11 (22)
33. [K1, P1] X 11 (22)
34. [K1, P1] X 11 (22)

Cast off all stitches in pattern [K1, P1]

Copyright © 2011 Amanda Berry  

All patterns offered by fluff and fuzz (designed by Amanda Berry) are protected by international copyright laws. These patterns are intended for personal use only. Other uses are strictly prohibited. Any unauthorised copying will constitute an infringement of copyright.  All rights reserved.

I have no objection if you wish to make your stockings from my pattern to raise funds for charity; however please do not knit up for commercial purposes.

How to do Kitchener Stitch

I have been really busy for the last few months working on my fashion business degree, and in my breaks from studying I designed some new knitted friends, my bunny and bear. 

To make the bunny, I used kitchener stitch to finish the top of the foot, and I thought this would be a great opportunity to post another knitting tutorial. 

Kitchener stitch grafts two pieces of knitting together that are still on the needle, and gives a smooth finish to the seam.  It is often used in socks and clothing.  Apparently it is named after Lord Kitchener of Khartoum, who promoted Red Cross knitting of socks for soldiers in the First World War with a grafted toe using this technique.   Whether that is true or not, I don’t know.  Perhaps it should be a question on QI?

Here is the tutorial, and if you would like a pdf version for easy printing please click here.

To start grafting, the two pieces of knitting to be joined should be on two needles.  Place the two needles parallel to each other, with the wrong side (purl side) facing inwards and tips pointing in the same direction.  If you are right handed, hold both the knitting needles in your left hand and sew the seam with your right hand. 

Note that you need an equal number of stitches on each needle for the join.  Here I am joining 5 stitches on the front needle to 5 stitches on the back needle.

 

You will need a length of working yarn at least twice as long as the finished seam, and a tapestry needle.  You can attach the yarn to the knitting on the wrong side, or leave it loose and weave in the ends later (just remember to hold onto the tail when sewing your first stitches so you don’t pull your yarn out).  Use the same yarn for knitting to graft the seam. 

Please note in the pictures, yellow yarn is used to sew the join together so it is easier to see.

To start grafting, make the following two stitches:

STEP A:   Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front knitting needle (the one nearest to you) as if to purl, and pull the thread through leaving the stitch on the knitting needle.

STEP B:    Then insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the back knitting needle as if to knit and pull the yarn through leaving the stitch on the knitting needle

 Note that the working yarn (yellow) is kept underneath the two knitting needles all the time.

 Now that the first two stitches are worked, the rest of the stitches are worked using the following 4 steps:

 STEP 1:   Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the front knitting needle as if to knit, and slip the stitch off the knitting needle.

 

STEP 2:    Insert the tapestry needle into the next stitch on the front knitting needle (now the first stitch) as if to purl, and leave the stitch on the knitting needle.

STEP 3:   Insert the tapestry needle into the first stitch on the back knitting needle as if to purl, and slip the stitch off the knitting needle.

STEP 4:   Insert the tapestry needle into the next stitch on the back knitting needle (now the first stitch) as if to knit, and leave the stitch on the knitting needle.

Now repeat steps (1) to (4) until your last two grafting stitches remain.  I often have to sing this sequence as I sew!

“KNIT FRONT OFF,

PURL FRONT,

PURL BACK OFF,

KNIT BACK”

Then follow steps (1) and (3) to join the last 2 stitches.  This finishes the seam, and you can weave in your ends and secure on the wrong side of the knitting.

And here is the top of my bunny’s foot, to show the finished seam.

I admit it is a bit fiddly and time consuming, but you get a really nice finish to your seams so it is definitely worth a few practice swatches to see how you get on.

And if you like my bunny, the pattern is available to buy from my stores on Etsy, Folksy and Ravelry, and a copy of this tutorial is included with the pattern.

Happy knitting!

Misi Monday

A big thank you to KittyNoir at Magpie Moments for including my Loopy Sheep in the Misi Monday blog post.  Loopy is so happy to be part of your sheep selection!

Folksy Blog – thank you!

A huge thank you to Folksy blog for your lovely post on fluff and fuzz!   

Let’s Get Crafting – Issue 29 baby knits

I am thrilled to have another pattern published in Let’s Get Crafting Magazine, issue 29, which is in store now. 

My design for a baby ABC ball also made it to the front cover, which made my mother exceptionally proud!

I bought my copy in WH Smiths, and it is a  bargain because you also get 6 balls of wool and spare needles with the magazine, and I can’t wait to try out the teddy on the front cover.

happy knitting everyone!

Badgers

 

What a busy weekend it has been.  I have been knitting badgers for Laura to sell in Curiouser and Curiouser, and I finished today.  I love these little guys, and it is going to be really hard to say goodbye!

If you would like to knit your own badgers, my Brompton Badger knitting pattern is available from my stores on Etsy, Folksy and Ravelry.

Happy knitting!

January is crafting month

Did you know that January is crafting month? 

Well I have been very busy knitting toys for “Curiouser and Curiouser”, a delightful shop in Edinburgh that sells my toys.  I have made some puppies, sheep and teddy bears….

What are you making this January?  I would love to know!!

Happy knitting!