Quite a few people have asked me for a duck pattern, and here it is…..Quacky Duck!
Designed by Amanda Berry for fluff and fuzz, the knitting patterns can be purchased from…
http://fluffandfuzz.folksy.com
http://www.craftsy.com/user/pattern/store/541683
Happy knitting!
I have already posted a little tutorial on how to increase the number of stitches by one (check out my KFB post), but what if your pattern asks for you to increase the number of stitches by two (in other words, make 2 additional stitches out of one stitch)? This may be shown as the abbreviation “inc 2″, or as “knit into the front and back and front of the stitch”. Some patterns include instructions on how to do this, but if they don’t, I hope this tutorial may help.
The pattern wants you to make another 2 stitches, for example, if you had 10 stitches on the row and the pattern states:
K9, inc 2 (12)
You would knit 9, then on the last 1 stitch you would make a multiple increase making 2 extra stitches on the row for 12 stitches in total (10 plus 2).
Compare this with the KFB increase, where the pattern instructions would be:
K9, KFB (11)
Here you would knit 9, then on the last 1 stitch you would make a KFB increase making 1 extra stitch on the row, for 11 stitches in total (10 plus 1).
Hopefully that is the school math bit over and done with! So here is how you make the multiple increase to make 2 additional stitches on a knit row.
Knit to the point of the increase. Knit into the front of the next stitch but do not let it fall off the needle
Then knit into the back of the same stitch, but again, do not let it fall off the needle. So far, this is just the same as KFB except we have kept the stitches on the needle.
Knit into the front of the same stitch again. You have now made two additional stitches (three stitches have been made out of one).
On this little sample of stockinette stitch, I have cast on 3 stitches and made an increase on the middle stitch of every knit row so you can see how the knitting slopes on either side of the knitting.
I hope this tutorial will help if you ever see “inc 2″!
Happy knitting!
I have been making the most of my summer break from university to finish some knitting projects, and I am super excited to launch a new pattern this week …. Mr. Snowman! I do hope you like him.
For links to my pattern stores, click here
Happy knitting!
I have made a little sampler combining knit and purl stitches to create a gingham check texture pattern. Here is the pattern if you would like to use it (or pop over to my “free for you” page for a pdf version of this pattern).
This is worked on a multiple of 10 stitches plus 5 stitches (for example, 25 stitches = 10 stitches x 2, plus 5 stitches), and 8 rows.
Row 1: *p5, k1, (p1, k1) x 2, repeat from * to the last 5 sts, p5
Row 2: k5, *(k1, p1) 2, k6, repeat from * to the end of the row
Rows 3 to 6: repeat rows 1 and 2 twice
Row 7: *(k1, p1) x 2, k6, repeat from * to the last 5 sts, (k1, p1) x 2, k1
Row 8: k1, (p1, k1) x 2, * p5, k1, (p1, k1) x 2, repeat from * to the end of the row
Rows 9 to 12: repeat rows 7 and 8 twice
Repeat rows 1 to 12 until your piece is the desired length.
Happy knitting!
If you are a beginner knitter, you probably know how to make pieces in garter stitch (knitting every row) and stockinette stitch (where you knit a row, then purl a row).
If you want to try something different and you know how to knit and purl, then you can make a textured pattern called single rib, or “knit one purl one”.
Single rib is a stretchy piece of knitting, and is often used for cuffs on sleeves. I have used single rib for the bottom of the hat I am making for one of my toys.
To make single rib, on one row you will knit one stitch, then purl the next stitch, and repeat this pattern to the end of the row. If you are a newbie knitter, I have included a little tutorial below on how to knit rib patterns.
Sorry if these instructions are too basic, I wanted to make this easy to follow for newbie knitters, and any comments are welcome.
To make single rib, you need to alternate from knitting to purling stitches during a row. So how do you do this?
You have probably noticed that when you knit stitches the yarn is always at the back of the work (behind the knitting) and when you purl stitches the yarn is at the front of the work. So…
Here is how you do this:
After working a knit stitch the yarn is at the back of the work.
To purl the next stitch, bring the yarn to the front between the tips of the two needles.
Now purl the next stitch.
If you have to knit the next stitch, take the yarn to the back of the work between the tips of the two needles.
When working in rib stitches, sometimes the pattern will tell you to “knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches”. So here is what they look like before you work the row.
You can make single rib on any number of stitches; it can be odd or even. This is the pattern for an even number of stitches (if you have an odd number the pattern is provided later in the tutorial).
If you want to try a test piece, start by casting on 20 stitches.
When you are working on an even number of stitches, for every row follow this single rib pattern:
*knit one stitch, purl one stitch; repeat from * to the end of the row (so you will end on a purl stitch).
The abbreviated form of this instruction is:
Row 1: *(K1, P1), rep. from * to end of row.
Repeat row 1 until you have reached the desired length or number of rows.
If you are working on an odd number of stitches on the row, the pattern alters slightly, as follows:
Row 1: *K1, P1; rep. from * to last stitch, K1
Row 2: P1; *K1, P1; rep. from * to end of row.
Repeat rows 1 and 2.
(Note that row 2 is different for an odd number of stitches, so that you are knitting the knit stitches and purling the purl stitches on every row.)
Double rib is just a more dense/thicker version of single rib. To make double rib, you will knit 2 and purl 2.
Double rib pattern is worked on a multiple of 4 stitches plus 2 (for example, it can be worked on 14 stitches which equals 4 stitches x 3, plus 2 additional stitches).
To make double rib:
Row 1: *K2, P2, rep. from * to last 2 stitches, K2
Row 2: P2, *K2, P2, rep. from * to end of row
Repeat rows 1 and 2.
You can combine any number of knit or purl stitches to make your rib pattern (for example knit 3, purl 2). Experiment with any combination, just remember to knit the knit stitches and purl the purl stitches on each row.
Happy knitting!
I have finally finished writing up the sewing patterns for my little felt animal friends. I loved making these little charms, which I designed from some of my animal cartoon doodles.
If you would like to make your own animals, these are sewn by hand (no sewing machine needed), and use small amounts of felt fabric so are a great way of using up some of your fabric stash. The sewing pattern includes the puppy, tiger, piglet, bunny, tortoise and bluebird, and is available from my stores on Folksy, Craftsy and Etsy.
Happy sewing!
I have been experimenting with short rows (from my previous post), and have created a little Christmas Pudding. I know it seems far too early in the year to think about Christmas, but I am planning ahead to have all my decorations and gifts ready in time for December.
My little pudding is about 11cm high, and topped with knitted holly leaves and berries. You could also use the holly and berries to decorate cards or as gift toppers for Christmas presents.
The pudding is knitted flat, not in the round, and uses short rows and intarsia colour knitting.
If you would like to purchase the pattern, it is available from my stores on Etsy, Folksy, Ravelry and Craftsy.
Happy knitting.
A few of my patterns include short rows to shape the knitting, so I thought it would be a good idea to include a tutorial on how to do this.
Just pop over to my “free for you” page if you would prefer a pdf copy of this tutorial to save on your pc.
Short rows might seem really daunting as this is quite a long post. I have included lots of photos to try and make this as easy as possible to follow, so please don’t be put off!
What are short rows?
They are used to shape knitted pieces, and in clothing can be used to make darts or shape shoulders. Short rows can also make curved knitted pieces, such as in donut rings or spheres.
Below is an example of a curved piece of knitting which I have made using short rows. When you make a short row you will stop knitting part way through a row, turn the knitting and add a short row. You will note in the picture that there are more rows on the outside of the curve than there are on the inside of the curve. To do this I stopped knitting before the end of the row (the inside of the curve) and added extra short rows so that the outside of the curve is wider.
When do you make a short row?
Most knitting patterns will tell you to turn the work, and this is where you make a short row.
But, if you stop knitting and turn, you will have a small hole at the point of the turn. Some patterns may have this hole as part of their design, but generally you don’t want holes in your knitting. So to avoid this, when a pattern states “turn”, you need to “wrap and turn”, and later, pick up the wrap.
Short rows tutorial …
I confess this does look difficult, and I often have to refer to my notebooks to get the steps right when I do this, but it is easier with a bit of practice, and you don’t need any additional knitting tools.
If you want to knit along with this tutorial, I have cast on 20 stitches and worked about 10 rows in stocking stitch. I am working in stripes, and in the tutorial pictures my working yarn is white.
Here is the pattern that I am following for this tutorial:
These are the instructions if you need to turn on a knit row; this is row 1 in my tutorial.
The pattern states “K15, turn”. So I have knitted 15 of the 20 stitches on my knit row as normal, and stopped ready to turn. The 5 stitches on the left needle have not been knitted yet. Now I need to wrap the next stitch.
Slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle (this is the 16th stitch on the row). The working yarn is still at the back of the work when I do this.
Bring the working yarn forward between the two needles so it is at the front of the work.
Remember the stitch that I slipped at the beginning? Now I slip this stitch from the right needle back onto the left needle.
There are now 5 stitches on the left needle again that have not been knitted.
Take the working yarn from the front to the back of the work between the two needles, this “wraps” the stitch.
Now I turn the work so the purl side is facing me ready to purl on row 2.
Remember in my example there are 20 stitches on the row and I have knitted 15 stitches before turning, so the 5 stitches pictured above on the right hand needle have not been worked.
These are the instructions if you need to turn on a purl row.
The pattern for row 2 states “P10, turn”. So I have purled 10 stitches and stopped ready to turn. There are now 5 stitches on the left needle that have not been worked. Now I need to wrap the next stitch.
Slip the next stitch purlwise from the left needle to the right needle. The working yarn is still at the front of the work when I do this.
Take the working yarn back between the two needles so it is at the back of the work.
I take the stitch that I slipped before and slip it from the right needle back onto the left needle.
Bring the working yarn from the back to the front of the work between the two needles; this “wraps” the stitch.
Now I turn the work so the knit side is facing me ready to knit row 3.
On rows 3 and 4, I will be working the wrapped stitches, and I will need to pick up the wraps so there are no holes in the knitting.
Row 3 states “knit all the stitches”. I have 15 stitches to knit on my left hand needle after turning; the first ten are from the short row, so I knit these 10 stitches as normal. The 11th stitch has the wrap, and I need to pick up the wrap to ensure that there are no holes.
Most patterns will not tell you where to pick up, so it is useful to know what the wrapped stitch looks like. As you can see in the picture below, the wrap lies horizontally across the stitch, so it looks quite different from the other knit stitches.
Pick up this wrap with the right needle from front to back.
Then insert the right needle into the stitch that is wrapped on the left needle, and knit the wrap and the stitch together.
After this step, at the back of the knitting, it looks like I have knitted two stitches together, as there are two loops around the back of the knitted stitch.
Now I can finish knitting the rest of the stitches on this row.
On row 4, I have to purl all the stitches, but there is a wrap that needs to be picked up; the 16th stitch on the row.
You may find it easier to spot this wrapped stitch from the right side (knit side) of the work, as you can see the horizontal wrap around the stitch more clearly as shown below.
From the wrong side (purl side) pick up the wrap with the right needle from back to front.
Now place the wrap onto the left needle.
Purl together the stitch that is wrapped and the wrap that was just placed on the needle (just like purling two stitches together).
Now I finish the rest of the row with normal purl stitches.
Phew, what a lot of steps! I hope this has not completely put you off short rows!
If you have any questions, do leave a comment and I will be happy to help.
If you would like to experiment with short rows, these are included in my Bloomsbury Elephant and Norwood Monkey knitting patterns (don’t panic, I also include details of how to make these toys without short rows if this is too much of a headache!).
Happy knitting!
I had to make some hasty thank you presents this weekend…after a minor panic and realising I had no time to get out the knitting needles, I decided to sew some gifts instead.
I found some of my doodle drawings of animals and plants, and made some of them into little felt plushie charms. I was really pleased with the gift for teacher, a little apple charm.
I made my apple as a little keychain, but it could be made as a brooch or anything you like. I wanted to share this with you , and have posted the sewing pattern for my little apple on Craftsy if you would like to have a try at making your own. The pattern is free, and everything is hand sewn. I have included some step by step illustrations in the pattern as well as the pattern pieces. To view the pattern, please visit my “free for you” page for a pdf copy of the pattern, or you can also download a copy from craftsy at….
http://www.craftsy.com/pattern/sewing/Accessory/Apple-felt-charm-sewing-pattern/19703
Happy crafting!
I just received my copy of issue 42 of Let’s Get Crafting Knit & Crochet magazine, and as always have to pass on my thanks to the wonderful Editor and team for including one of my designs on the cover….my knitted stripe tote bag and heart charms.
As always, I loved all the projects in the magazine, and hope to find the time to knit the hanger cover this summer. If you would like the pattern to the bag and hearts, it is only available in the magazine. But good news! The matching stripe zip-up purse will be available as a free download from Let’s Get Crafting (and it is free to register too!)
And I must also thank the wonderful team at the magazine for including my knitting patterns for the owls and bunnies in this month’s issue.
Happy knitting!
PS: Sorry, please note that at the moment these patterns are only available from the magazine, and are not available in my stores.
